As the nights are getting longer and the evenings are darker, Emma shows you how to bring a futuristic glow back into your life with these fun Cyber Goggles! This is a more involved make, including soldering, deconstructing cables and some fun laser cutting.
Our new round USB RGB lamps are perfect for this job, being the right size, shape, and giving the user some options when it comes to lighting patterns!
- 2 x Kitronik Round RGB LED Lamps.
- Polar White frosted Perspex.
- 2 x Tactile Buttons.
- 2 x JST Battery To Servo Cables.
- 2 x 3.7V 1Ah LiPO batteries.
- 2 x Noodle Cables.
- Soldering Equipment.
- Wire Strippers and Wire Cutters.
- 2 x M3 100 Pan Head Screws and M3 Hex Nuts.
- This DXF File.
You Will Also Need:
- A pair of goggles, preferably not metal to avoid shorting the circuit. (Search for Cyberpunk or Steampunk Goggles to find similar, there are quite a few listing on places such as Amazon.)
- A fabric headband to hide the batteries inside.
- A Laser Cutter
- A Hot Glue Gun and Hot Glue Sticks.
Cyber Punk Goggles Step 1:
Firstly, cut the frosted lens replacements out and insert them. We have used Polar White Frosted Perspex® which diffuses all the light colours well, however you could try any colour. Some colours may not diffuse certain light colours well. Your particular goggles may require a different diameter lens, so you should double check before cutting new lenses. You can also choose a different design to engrave on the lens. We have engraved the design and then kiss-cut around the edge of it to make it pop. The DXF also contains the mounting panels for the board which will contain the PCB and electronics. Cut the mounting and wire holes through fully, kiss-cut the board outline and cut all the way through the outside.
Solder wires on to the external switch pads on the RGB LED Boards, as shown.
This step requires the disassembly of a micro USB cable in order to use a LiPo battery to power the 5V RGB LED Board. Extract the micro USB connector from one of our Noodle Cables, and cut the servo connector end from the Battery to Servo adapter. Solder the two wires from the adapter the V and GND pads (the two outside pads). Heat shrink the new connection to secure it.
NOTE: The polarity here matters! Pay attention to the order the wires are inside the Noodle Cable. Please see the diagram above for more details.
On the battery, the red lead is power and the black lead is ground. When plugged in, the black wire on the battery lead matches up with the black wire on the adapter lead. Therefore, you will solder the black lead on the adapter to Ground, and the white lead on the adapter to power.
Plug the battery, adapter and board together to test them! At this stage, mount the board on to the mounting panel with an M3 Screw and Hex Nut, making sure the switch wires thread through the oblong hole and the USB connector is over the flat edge of the mounting panel.
Either make a hole in the side of each lens or use an existing hole (like ours had) and push two of the legs on one side of your tactile switches through it. Cut the other two legs off, and superglue it on to the side to secure.
Solder the tactile switch legs on to the wires you soldered to the board earlier.
Push the mounting panel into place and apply hot glue generously to hold everything in place. Make sure the power adapter you made comes through the gap, and the panel doesn’t squash the wires where they connect to the tactile switch.
Cut holes into the soft headband, and slot your LiPo batteries in there. Connect your LiPo Batteries to the power adapters, and either using heat shrink or electrical tape secure the connection to make sure the batteries remain attached.
WARNING: There is a risk of fire if these batteries are improperly protected. Please manually protect your batteries - building a casing and covering the connections (e.g. using heat shrink) can be a good way of doing this.
And you're done! If you make them we would love see a photo!
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